The Jermyn Street stores are run by a franchisee. I shall have to give bespoke shoes a try some day. I used to be in England regularly, but missed the chance to check out their below-5 widths. Now fits comfortably after a substantial break in. Somehow lower instep than E? Customers love the shape of the Almond Toe-Boxes of Meermin shoes Many believe that that design adds well to the elegance of the shoes. Honest , relevant and informative. Why spend 400 retail when you can get a great pair of shoes for half that? A good pair of these would really satisfy your footwear style needs for a really long time. In fact at some point I wondered whether you were being protectionist of Northampton makers by apparently shunning AE, but then I could not see anywhere else that could be like you. Goto-san requires tracings to be sized in these and you really should have them done. 9US is too generous, * **Red Wing 8 last (iron ranger)** 8.5D a bit snug on the sides of the mid foot, might've gotten away with 8.5E, * **Rider Boot 42 last** 9D comfortable fit, but lowish instep at the top makes it hard to put them on without shoehorn, * **RM Williams Comfort Craftsman** 8G with a little heel slip, * **TLB Mallorca Alan** 8F UK generous without being overly roomy. Interesting selection. Its a solid fit. Really appreciate the advice. I wear a US10/UK9 and opted for a UK9, on Pepe's recommendation, and the fit is spot on. 6.5D Carmina: 5.5: UK: Forest, Robert - 5.5UK: 6.5D Carmina Forest: 5.5: UK: 5.5UK with a smidge of heel slip: "But at the same time, I do think you get better value now for a 200 shoe than you did 10 years ago, despite inflation, because theres so much more competition. Best fitting shoe I own, after a couple wears I can sport these for 20 miles with no hotspots. There are some good value pick ups in this range, especially when youre figuring out what you like and dont like and building up your wardrobe slowly over time.. Nice, good to hear your experience Taylor, thanks. American brands seem to be better at this (Alden, AE). @ Matty, if your initial post was relatively friendly and good natured Im sure you would have gotten a similar reply. If youre better of with 2 pairs of JC than 1 pair of JL is another question. Im a student in Sweden and I have worn a couple of the brands mentioned in the article (and in the comment section) during the last couple of years. *UPDATE: Carmina say they do not use plastic heel stiffeners. Japan is the biggest market in Asia for dress shoe brands, but a lot of the cheaper shoes (below 200) are made elsewhere in Asia and just finished at home (similar to Italy). I wonder how much more comfortable it would be. Heel is kind of big for an oxford shoe it turns out, stick to a boot for this last. This is certainly true, and prices mentioned in this article are towards each brands respective domestic markets.. Whats interesting is that for US customers it can go both ways depending on guidelines/restrictions from the brands. Maybe something in the weight of the shoes or its balance, but nothing apparent in construction. Also worth noting, is that Ive never written about this on Shoegazing, it just came up in the discussion with Simon when we talked about differences. Id be interested to see a reference for the made in Asia comment in the article. Also it seems that Carmina outlet in Granada used to sell Meermin shoes a few years back. Some of it is differences in leather and lined vs unlined, but a lot of it is lasting differences. I can fully close the lacing most of the way up for an ideal look. Does that refer to leather- or rubber ones? First thing I noticed is that they write the shoe runs large and one should buy half a size smaller than usual. in 9D my feet can slide right out. Thick, high quality leather, but without the supple stretchiness that C&Js and Westons uppers both have. Even for me and I have narrower feet than the average man. D. C. D. Medium. I would also include Lof & Tung on this list its Skoaktiebolagets house brand (though I havent seen any in person), and their customer service is excellent too. I bought AS through him when they were the best value for money in higher end shoes then moved to C&J on his advice. Theyre both very big brands now.. Guessing I'd need 9.5D or 9EE. Never felt loose. They are extremely comfortable and very good value in my opinion. Thing is that, not referring to Berluti necessarily now, but we do see a number of very famous bespoke shoemakers, not least in England, who the past years have started to put out shoes that arent properly made and/or have a proper fit. I might have very sensible feet but I wouldnt buy more mainline C&J. My C&J 337 is a bit loose in 10UK but too tight in 9.5UK; my Carmina Simpson Oxford is comfortably snug in 10UK (which is how I like my shoes to fit.) Total:1,176 (members:154, guests:1,022), Preorders, Group Made-to-order, trunk shows, and o. I spoke to folks at Carmina and got somewhat mixed opinions, the wrench in the equation being size variances on the lasts for both unlined and shell materials. Way too narrow and painful all around, last too tapered for my taste. The Hand-Welting construction of these shoes makes them be very good dress shoes that can fit into any wardrobe quite easily. From time to time you find great deals for +/- USD 600. Their price seems similar to or slightly higher than C&J Handgrade collections but I wasnt sure as they are a French brand. Other than that, interesting article. But also, a lot of brands offer MTO with a different width at no extra cost, or only a small one. Meermins are not bad fits though; these shoes are flexible and stretchable enough to blend with your feet measurements accurately once you get the right sizing. That said, something in the post did strike me negatively, on a subject I previously had been puzzled about: appraisal of Allen Edmonds. I think the short answer is that yes, it is expensive to add an extra width across all shoes. Its a bit funny though that you state I do arbitrary claims, when you yourself lift the examples you do, without backing it up with anything. I guess I was just wondering whether some of those extra things were actually noticeable in terms of comfort, durability, etc, especially because a number of mid-range shoes now have some of the things you mentioned: closed channels, oak-bark soles (or if not, that is always something you can get on the resole), a wide range of leathers, etc. 1. Certainly if I looked at them close up I could tell, and I could also tell if I was wearing them. Both of my pinky toes stick slightly out, sometimes I say I have splayed toes, but it's really just the pinky toe on each foot likes a bit of room. Initially uncomfortably tight across the vamp in shell and with moderate heal slip. Buttero Tanino: UK9, still breaking in but fits well. Carmina shoes come with better finishing than the Meermin shoes. 18 Last 10: Great fit. My experience with them has been very similar to yours, Felix. Just got re-measured last week after losing some weight (again), Im standing in between 10.5 C/D. Feels okay but gets painful in the midfoot as the day progresses. I found a pair on sale for about $100 more than those, however, so I figured I'd give them a try. Carminas Quality Control is definitely another trait that makes these shoes better than Meermin shoes. I even got a pair of Lobb Chapels for 245 in 2009. 1 down the toe could be getting very short. This is very useful, thank you. To me, theyd come in just below C&J, Loding in Canada had a service (a couple years back) that involved a full time patina specialist in Montreal. Whites Barrie 8.5D: Felt too tight on the instep brand new. Of course second pairs usually come out better, and know there can be customers nagging on very small things, but certainly doesnt sound like it in your case. Thursday Vanguard 9.5D: Toe box is a bit tapered for my liking, but overall fit is so-so. Simon, I was wondering what are your thoughts on Sanders. To be honest, I wasnt impressed. Its just not possible.. The Alden cordovan color of the shoe is achieved by a plastic pellicule which shaves rather quickly to reveal a light brown leather underneath. I acknowledge I am emotionally attached to AE, it was the first quality brand I could access. This goes for Allen Edmonds now as well, where they will routinely reach 700 if bought directly from the manufacturer shipped out to Canada. Theyre all Spanish except Septieme Largeur, which is French but made in Spain. I find that you almost always get what you pay for when it comes to goodyear welted shoes and both of these shoemakers are a big step up from all the budget tier brands I have tried in terms of materials, fit, craftmanship and durability. Velasca uses a Blake/Rapid construction, so not Goodyear welted - but remember Blake/Rapid is more similar to Goodyear than it is to normal Blake. But you might want to chat with Carmina first to double-check. Ive mostly moved to bespoke now due to my weird feet, but I do own a pair of Morjas suede chukkas that I use in bad weather. But in the same moment, I realised this was unfair. Common Projects Achilles and Bball: 43 are some of my best fitting shoes, especially the Bballs that have a little more toe room. to my eye, both look too large for you based on these pics. Sendra has its own brand as well as making for others, which is a little more expensive than Berwick or Meermin. Bought before I understood my size. Although Meermins have great shoe soles, the truth is that Carminas are just much better.MEERMIN SHOE SOLES. Well Id imagine the aim is to make more money, given that some will know the Cleverley name and want to buy into it. Lofgren 110: Im aware that its not polite anymore to cherish them, but the Steadfast Chukka in 9.5 is my best fitting shoe ever. Simon wrote that it is expensive to add an extra width across all shoes. The soles have also had some quality issues my shoes have channeled soles, and the top layer has peeled off repeatedly at the edges. s. It is my impression that, notwithstanding Cleverleys arm-waving and misdirection regarding their provenance, the Cleverely RTW are made by C&J. 10 Best Ortholite Replacement Insoles (Reviewed in 2022), 11 Best Water Shoes for Water Parks | Footslide, Highly-Durable Shoe Construction and Design, Meermins dont last as long as Carmina shoes, You can get most Carminas for cost prices between 341 and 407, You can buy Meermin shoes for prices between $160 and $210. No one wants their sole to wear down quickly, but points like the shaped waist are more aesthetic, and its up to you whether you care about them. Wapmaxi Time To Change 2015Meermin & Carmina Boot Sizing and Review Hey all, been a bit since I've posted but I stopped by both Meermin and Carmina in NYC the other day and thought I'd share my opinions for guys looking at either or both for fall boot wearing. Please support us by using them. For reference, previous sizing threads 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 for extra data points. Because the level is higher, and also because I wasnt that impressed with Myrqvist either, personally. These would be an excellent fit if the toe box was a bit wider. I live in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam so I know these companies. GC RTW are made by C&J so they are likely to be quite similar. Way too narrow all around, last too tapered for my taste. Theres so many men who more or less only buy bespoke tailoring, and who can spend enormous amount of money on watches etc. Crockett & Jones (bench grade): I own the Alex (wholecut on 348 last). The equivalent shoes are both online currently for 400 each. So on the making you get all closed channels, you get all leatherboard or even leather heel stiffeners, you get a rounded side on the heel on both inside and outside, a slightly bevelled waist etc. Bespoke obviously solves this but I dont care enough about the other elements you get and pay for with bespoke, or perhaps I just think 2k+ is too much and I suspect (hope?) Yes literally hard as rock but very nice looking in their box.. Agree Alan, buyer beware that they are extremely hard to break in. I definitely enjoy the articles with the highest quality makes but its nice to have a change of pace as well, especially if its going to help me make a decision on something Im likely to buy. Cork/insole filling will also compress. Everyone in London should visit John and ask for his advice on shoes. They look nice to me, but as I have only been buying shoes from British shoemakers, I am unsure whether their last may look showy or unusual comparison. Loake 024 last (F-Fit): 7UK a bit tight around toes and heel. Very snug toe box, foot extends past footbed on sides; too much vertical space even with tongue pad, resulting in lots of heel slip and overlapping facings. Indeed, stylistically they are even quite close. Ive been reading a lot of menswear sites/blogs for years and this is one of the few that does not feel like sponsored content when you read it. Please use this thread to list your sizing in various lasts compared to your Brannock size. If you wanted something sleeker, and dont mind it being slightly more delicate then JM Weston. In the end I find it would be the most comfortable of all three lasts. To me, the leather feels similar to Carmina, though possibly even stiffer and more inflexible. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. I have been tempted for a while to try a pair of bespoke shoes to see if it truly is a large step up in comfort. Oscar - 8 UK Carmina - Rain - 7.5 UK J. Fitzpatrick - TMG - 7.5 UK Meermin - Rui - 7.5 . Sounds like a nice choice of shoes. in fact my favourite leather is meermin museum calf, while meermin llama I dont really like, and I wouldnt touch their black box calf with a 10 pole. Thanks Robin. Very useful for us who buy shoes in this price range. What struck a cord for me is consistency of (most) english manufacturers. To me, they have been 100% worth the money. And they are one of the very few brands offering something for the ladies. Dress socks. I loved the MTO experience there. does not really mean quality will be consistent. and maybe as far as a 37 in the Tanino, though that is a very rare size. Some RTW still offer width varieties but I believe the manufacturers found that those with narrow feet didnt suffer if the shoes were too wide. Can you please comment on the poor quality of English soles mentioned. Perhaps other readers can. But the key issue from my point of view is that AE offers 10 widths across all the models in their portfolio, where none of the Northamptoners are able to offer more than 2 and only for very few of their models. My understanding is that AE is below the likes of Crocketts in terms of make, but thats based on the input of people like Jesper who know more about them than I do. She tried Orbans but they were stiff as hell. Do you know what thats down to? Ive always found the customer service at EG shocking. Moderate arch. Morjas uses corrected-grain leather, despite their claims to the contrary. My favourite pair of C&J have been back to the factory four times for refurbishment. I think it makes sense for C&J to stick to making shoes and not running shops. If you are in the market for a pair of elegant footwear, Id recommend for you duly consider buying the Carmina shoes. Nick horween has spoken at length about this, so shell cordovan chromexcel etc are technically corrected grain. Rafal hails from Poland and is a shoemaker who creates each pair of shoes by himself. Ive also, more recently, experienced the customer service at GC and G&G excellent in both cases, as was the consistently good service at the Little Cheaney shop in Leeds, when I lived in the North of England. Boot socks. I suspect the 1035 in 9.5 would fit me perfectly. Bought before I understood my size. An apron toe penny loafer from Orbans last summer that were on clearance for 60 euros. People need to understand that expensive shoes will always give you your best return over time, especially when theyre taken care of properly. The Brannock size (heel-to-toe) will be the top parent comment. I would note that although the shoes I own have tight sole stitching, C&J models without pinking on the soles (for example, the Sydney with rubber soles) are noticeably less sleek. CNES has a larger range of casual shoe styles off the rack but Fugashin is more refined with better hand details and more elegant last shapes. Finally, this last is fairly conservative, with less sleek lines than the C&J, Carmina, Weston, etc. 4. Many thanks in advance, If you want something that very versatile, I wouldnt go with burgundy. The manager gave me a significant discount for resoling them but, even after three decades as a loyal customer, I would be reluctant to buy from them again. In the past, I would spend under $300 on an item without really thinking twice about it but once I started keeping track, I began to notice that all these expenditures (which were often impulse buys or prompted by sales) were adding up to several thousand dollars a year. The Santos shoes that I own are comparable in quality to my Carmina, Cheaney and C&J mainline shoes. Carminas actually have better fits than Meermin shoes. I ultimately gave up on mine. These are two of the best known shoe brands internationally, with Crocketts a British mainstay and Carmina (above) coming to prominence in the past 10 years.
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